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Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing oversized shimmering pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Kids play in a rock pool imitating mermaids, meanwhile nearby resides a talking pea in a display case, next to a imposing mound of mattresses. This is the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s most beloved authors. I’m in Odense, located on Funen in the south of the Danish kingdom, to discover the author's lasting influence in his native city many decades after his demise, and to discover a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center celebrating the storyteller, including his original residence. A curator explains that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who travel to this place looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a main thoroughfare, created the chance to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be commemorated. A major architecture competition granted the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the commission, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the layout. The unique wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we speak in the manner of the storyteller: with comedy, irony and viewpoint,” says the expert. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, a challenge achieved by thoughtful gardening, playing with height, size and many winding paths in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

Andersen wrote multiple memoirs and frequently changed his story. The museum adopts this philosophy to heart; often the perspectives of his companions or snippets of correspondence are displayed to gently question the his narrative of happenings. “Andersen is the narrator, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the curator. The effect is a engaging swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, thought processes and favorite tales. It’s thought-provoking and playful, for adults and youngsters, with a extra lower-level imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Back in the actual city, the small city of Odense is delightful, with stone-paved roads and historic timber buildings painted in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the road indicators display the writer with his signature top hat, metal shoe prints offer a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this commitment peaks with the regular Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through visual arts, movement, stage shows and music.

Recently, the multi-day festival had 500 shows, most of which were free. While visiting the city, I come across artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an author double sharing tales. I experience feminist spoken-word pieces and see an remarkable evening show with acrobatic dancers lowering from the city building and hanging from a mechanical arm. Future activities this year are talks, family art workshops and, expanding the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

All good magical places require a castle, and this region contains over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in other Danish regions, bicycles are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “bicycle route” meanders through the downtown area. Departing from the local hotel, I ride to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a loop around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the mainland. Local inhabitants relax with food here following their day, or take pleasure in a peaceful time angling, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

Back in town, I visit a local eatery, where the food selection is derived from Andersen themes and narratives. The literary work the patriotic piece is highlighted when I visit, and owner Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, presented in English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents appreciate narratives and it seems that narrating is always offered here.

Castle Explorations

All good enchanted locations require a castle, and the island boasts 123 castles and estates across the island. Going on excursions from the city, I tour the historic fortress, Europe’s most intact Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are available for tours, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his spouse, the princess. I ponder if she would notice a small legume through a pile of {mattresses